The Forgotten Statue of Monsieur Le Gris
‘Jehan de Molendino found himself in front of Notre Dame. Then indecision seized upon him once more, and he paced for several minutes round the statue of M. Legris.’
- from The Hunchback of Notre Dame by Victor Hugo, Seventh Book, Chapter IV
‘Jehan de Molendino found himself in front of Notre Dame. Then indecision seized upon him once more, and he paced for several minutes round the statue of M. Legris.’
- from The Hunchback of Notre Dame by Victor Hugo, Seventh Book, Chapter IV
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Located just outside the famous west door of Notre Dame cathedral you will find a metal disc in the ground identifying the spot as ‘Kilometer Zero.’ This is the official starting point and mile marker for the entire highway system in France and is the acknowledged center point of the capital city. Hundreds of thousands of tourist traverse the spot each year, have their pictures taken and rub the disc for good luck. Almost none of them know just how rudely they would have been treated by Parisians on that very spot some three centuries ago.
A three-meter-tall stone statue once stood there, reputedly a representation of Esculapius, the god of physicians. When it was erected is not entirely clear but it was used as the center point for measuring distances in Paris since time immemorial. When those new to Paris stopped to ask locals for directions, they would oftentimes be directed to Monsieur Le Gris’ shop in the center of the city, the Place du Parvis directly outside the front door of the great cathedral. When they asked around for Monsier Le Gris (Mr. Gray in English) and his shop they would find, to their dismay, that no such place existed. Then they would be grabbed and forcibly frogmarched to the statue where their noses would be rubbed up hard against it. This is what passed for a humorous prank in Paris up until 1748 when the statue was removed.
Things have changed, thankfully. Still, if you ever venture to the plaza outside of the main entrance to Notre Dame and you see someone holding a protective hand over his or her nose while walking by the marker for ‘Kilometer Zero’ - well, you’ll know the memory of Monsier Le Gris and his mysterious shop have not been completely erased.
A three-meter-tall stone statue once stood there, reputedly a representation of Esculapius, the god of physicians. When it was erected is not entirely clear but it was used as the center point for measuring distances in Paris since time immemorial. When those new to Paris stopped to ask locals for directions, they would oftentimes be directed to Monsieur Le Gris’ shop in the center of the city, the Place du Parvis directly outside the front door of the great cathedral. When they asked around for Monsier Le Gris (Mr. Gray in English) and his shop they would find, to their dismay, that no such place existed. Then they would be grabbed and forcibly frogmarched to the statue where their noses would be rubbed up hard against it. This is what passed for a humorous prank in Paris up until 1748 when the statue was removed.
Things have changed, thankfully. Still, if you ever venture to the plaza outside of the main entrance to Notre Dame and you see someone holding a protective hand over his or her nose while walking by the marker for ‘Kilometer Zero’ - well, you’ll know the memory of Monsier Le Gris and his mysterious shop have not been completely erased.
Issue 2
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The ‘Paris Minute’ is brought to you by Drew Jensen of Brooklyn Park, MN who offers live performances of the beautiful music of Frederic Chopin in a presentation titled ‘Chopin and the Romantic Era: The July Monarchy in Paris (1830-1848).’ He is available for private bookings in the Twin Cities area at an affordable rate. Consider inviting him over; you and your guests will be entranced and fascinated. Contact drew@agoranova.com.
And please pass this article along to anyone you feel might find it interesting. Thank you!
